Makhana is mostly air and starch. Roast it too fast and the outside hardens while the centre stays chalky. Too slow and it picks up oil. The window is narrow.
We roast in 4 kg batches for around 12 minutes, shaking the pan constantly. A smaller batch means more even heat, and a person — not a timer — decides when the batch is done.
It is slower. It costs more. It is the only way we have found to get that clean, shattering crunch without a heavy oil finish.